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Una Hamburguesa Con Queso
January 9, 2005 | 09:30
Drake Passage
Dear Journal,
From the chaos of a nine-hour flight emerged our first dose of Argentina over una hamburguesa con queso y Coke in la Plaza de San Martin deep in the heart of Buenos Aires. This was all after a brief city tour including Casa Rosario. The highlight of Buenos Aires was looking through the markets set up along the Cathedral de San Martin which is accompanied by a beautiful, yet morbid, graveyard with crypts and mausoleums decorating the walkways crowded with tributes to the past heroes of Argentina. All this excitement was in transit between the Aeropuerta Internacional and the Aeropuerta Domestic to catch our flight to the southernmost city in the world… Ushuaia.
Patrick Schwing '06
Leadership & Team Building in ANTARCTICA
January 11, 2005 | 09:01
Aboard the M/S Andrea in the South Atlantic
Hello from the Drake Passage: the roughest seas in the world. We departed Ushuaia, Argentina, yesterday afternoon and are currently half way to Antarctica. Overnight the winds accelerated and we are facing some rough seas; indeed, even as I type this letter, the computer keyboard is sliding all over the table. The rough seas have produced some entertainment; for example, at every meal plates, drinks, and silverware slide off the tables into some unfortunate person's lap. The downside to the rough seas is that everyone has been reaching for their Dramamine, wrist bands, and/or “the patch” to combat seasickness.
Yesterday, prior to leaving Ushuaia, the entire team met for 2.5 hours to receive individual feedback on their personality and problem solving surveys. We also discussed what these indicate regarding our teamwork together on this expedition. The survey results suggest that we have a very diverse team as well as a very talented team. I've been very impressed by their involvement and activity level on all facets of our expedition.
Tomorrow, late afternoon, we should have Antarctica in sight. The students are really excited about seeing this place as well as stepping onto the continent of Antarctica. I share their excitement, especially since we have all now been traveling for several days: 36 hours of flying as well as 2 days crossing the Drake Passage.
The academic portion of this class is to experience firsthand the challenges faced by Sir Earnest Shackleton and to discuss the leadership lessons to be learned from his extraordinary adventure. Already being in the rough seas of the Drake Passage has us wondering how he and his men could have survived. It is very difficult to imagine how he was able to sail from Elephant Island to The South Georgia -- 800 miles -- and survive.
Today, while on board ship, we had two lectures from experts: one was about the geography of the area and another about bird life in the Antarctic region. At 5 pm this evening we will have another expert lecture on Krill among other things.
There have only been two subtle challenges to us so far: one is to avoid plates, silverware, and glasses flying off the tables at mealtime during the rough seas; another challenge has been to walk on this ship. We really do look like “drunken sailors” trying to walk on this rolling surface.
Tomorrow we may finally see Antarctica, but that will depend on the weather.
In the words of Shackleton “All is well.”
Peter Hammerschmidt
We All Donned Our Big Orange Lifejackets
January 11, 2005 | 10:00
Drake Passage en Route to the Antarctic Peninsula aboard the M/S Andrea
Dear Journal,
The M/S Andrea slipped her lines around 1800 and embarked from the port of Ushuaia. We sailed down the Beagle channel, which separates the southernmost areas of Chile and Argentina. Never before have I set eyes on such a pristine and beautiful place. The barren mountains rise sharply from the shores, and the brown peaks kiss the clouds above.
In compliance with SOLAS requirements we all donned our big orange lifejackets for a lifeboat drill.
The whole ship creaks as the turbulent indigo seas of the Drake Passage strain the hull. Being below deck gives me an idea of what it may have been like for the millions who have sailed the seas. I am amazed Shackleton was able to bring his crew to safety, after enduring a punishing two-year period in the Antarctic. How Shackleton was able to navigate 800 miles aboard a lifeboat to a small island without any modern technology is beyond me.
Andrew Hopper '06
If an authority on a ship says take Dramamine, then TAKE IT!
January 11, 2005 | 13:30
Drake Passage en Route to the Antarctic Peninsula aboard the M/S Andrea
Dear Journal,
I got one of my wishes- the one for rough seas. I was awakened this morning by the sound of the clanking of glasses in our minibar. A number of people onboard are sea sick, myself included. Big waves are all fun and games aboard jet skis and small powerboats, but not on the M/S Andrea…I think the Dramamine must have kicked in. I'm feeling much better now. Leadership lesson for the day: “If an authority on a ship says take Dramamine, then TAKE IT!”
Andrew Hopper '06
Rocking 20 Degrees Each Way
January 11, 2005 | 15:30
Aboard the M/S Andrea in the South Atlantic
Dear Journal,
"With teamwork anything is possible, even figuring out how to stop cabinet drawers from slamming at 4 in the morning, half asleep w/ the ship rocking 20 degrees each way."
The Drake Passage is much rougher than I thought it would be. I thought I was going to fall out of bed a few times last night. I guess it takes a few days to get your sea legs. The rooms are a little too warm for this amount of rolling, but the air outside is crisp and cool, perfect for taking the queasiness away. Except for the occasional spilled drink and walking into walls due to the rocking, it's been a piece of cake and I'm really looking forward to seeing ice. I've seen a few albatross already, but no whales yet; I'm still looking. As soon as we get near land we'll see them. That's all for now. Antarctica here we come.
Michelle Davis '05
First Iceberg
January 12, 2005 | 09:30
The Captain's challenge: "Be the first to spot the first iceberg as big as this ship." Dan Niebler met the challenge. The first iceberg was spotted 35NM north of the South Shetland Islands. The exact location of the iceberg was 62 degrees 24.7 minutes South X 59 degrees 13.5 minutes West. The bird is a giant southern petrel. Photography by Chris Hildreth
Read Dan's entry about the iceberg
Photography
Our First Iceberg!
January 12, 2005 | 09:30
North of Shetland Islands
Dear Journal,
Today I spotted our first iceberg! At approximately 63 degrees south by 59 degrees west, thirty five nautical miles north of the South Shetland Islands, it appeared on the horizon dead ahead of the ship. One moment there was nothing there but a hazy grey fog, and then it appeared like a small white mountain, looming there in front of us. I ran up to the bridge and found out that it had been spotted only moments earlier by the crew. We altered course and passed the iceberg on our starboard side, about one thousand feet from it. Several penguins were resting on it, lined up along a ridge leading up from the waters edge. It was an amazing sight, well worth the hours of waiting and watching. Excitement is being felt by all; we’ve almost arrived!
See the iceberg Dan spotted
Dan Niebler '05
The Seas Were Rougher This Morning Because of a Blizzard
January 12, 2005 | 10:30
Shetland Islands
Dear Journal,
The seas were rougher this morning because of a blizzard. The decks were slippery and the wind was so strong that I slipped and skidded towards the edge of the ship. I feared plunging into the freezing water. Fortunately, the railing did not have gaps large enough to let me through.
Matt Taylor '05
Penguins, Seals and Students
January 12, 2005 | 12:00
Click images to view full size
Photography
Landfall!
January 12, 2005 | 19:30
Anchored at Half Moon Island
Dear Journal,
Landfall! We awoke to an announcement; the first iceberg had been spotted. Later during a lecture for proper procedure during landfall we saw our first landmass, the first South Shetland Island. At 14:30, we arrived by Zodiac at Half Moon Island. Penguins were everywhere, although we respectfully kept our distance. Seals were also sighted: larger than their avian peers, but just as photogenic. A trek around the island with four friends resulted in spectacular vistas, several humpback whale sightings, and great photo opportunities, culminating in Andy’s attempted clearing of a cold, Antarctic stream ending in a splash after we had all rolled down a snowy bank. We had arrived in terra firma and it was spectacular.
Leadership Lesson: Think before you leap!
Craig Altemose '05
After 2 Days of Living on a Tilt-a-Whirl
January 13, 2005 | 10:00
Weddell Sea and Gulf of Erebus and Terror
After our first stop on land yesterday, we spent much of last night sailing south through the Antarctic Sound. After 2 days of living on a tilt-a-whirl, the relatively mild rocking motion made for great sleeping. I stopped by the bridge last evening to learn a bit more about the ship and see the iceberg on the radar scope. The officer on watch said that there would be a lot of ice coming toward us out of the Sound, and that our course would be a bit of a slalom.
They say that the best laid plans of mice and men oft go awry, and in the Antarctic this happens a lot. The ship’s crew every night provides a tentative schedule for the next day. By the time we woke up this morning, the plan for the day had changed twice. The course to Devil’s Island was blocked by pack ice. So, we are now heading for Paulet Island, hoping that the wind will be mild enough to allow us to go ashore on the Zodiacs.
The pack ice is an amazing sight. It includes sea ice (frozen sea water) and mammoth ice bergs calved from glaciers. Some of the tabular ice bergs appear almost to be huge frozen tankers or aircraft carriers, and have multiple colors - white, blue and even clear or black. The small ones often have a few penguins hitching a ride along. The wind and water have carved some of the smaller ice chunks into amazing shapes and forms. Identifying shapes is a lot like looking at shapes in clouds.
Matthew Staman '92
Drifting Icebergs and Musical Penguins
January 13, 2005 | 11:00
Drifting near Paulet Island
Dear Journal,
This morning the Andrea carried us to Paulet Island; a volcano covered with Adélie penguins: hundreds-of-thousands of Adélie penguins. As the Zodiac boats chugged towards the beach, groups of the penguins swam around us, shooting in and out of the water like dolphins. A few of the funny looking black birds waddled up the ski-jump-like slopes of a one hundred and fifty foot iceberg. Looking like drunken old men, they swayed left and right with both wings extended.
The intense stink of penguin poo welcomed the landing parties at the stone beach. Car-sized chunks of ice were all over the shore, bluer than 2000 Flushes. Steeps of the island towered over one thousand feet in some places, but that didn’t stop the Adélie, who built their stone nests many hundreds of feet up. We waded through the mass of penguins, reaching the ruins of a stone hut constructed in 1903 by a party of sixteen men who were forced to survive there after their ship, The Antarctic, was destroyed. The grave of Ole Wennersgaard, who died on 7 June 1903, was still visible from within the rubble. Nesting penguins were all over the rocks of the grave. It was here that I caught my first view of a penguin guano squirt. What a sight!
The penguin motion over the loose rock plates made a strange music, like a small pots-and-pans band playing in the distance. A freshwater lake filled the volcano’s basin, but few penguins would swim in it. I don’t blame them; the water was filled with guano run-off. The natural beauty of the island and its surroundings was magnificent, indescribable. We were experiencing the harmony of nature: the jagged volcanic cliffs, the drifting icebergs and the musical penguins.
Thomas Alves '07
Half Moon Island
January 13, 2005 | 11:30
Click images to view full size
Expedition members walk back to the zodiac landing area near the Argentinian research base on Half Moon Island.
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A gentoo penquin on Half Moon Island, Antarctica. |
After exploring the island of Half Moon, members of the expedition take time out to frolic and roll down a snowy embankment before heading back to the ship in a Zodiac.
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Chinstrap penguins on a rocky perch on Half Moon Island. |
Photography
Mom, it’s me…I’m calling from Antarctica!
January 13, 2005 | 12:30
Paulet Island, Antarctica
Dear Journal,
Sitting down directing traffic in the middle of a penguin highway, I was in awe of what exactly my eyes were seeing. It was the awe I knew I’d experience during winter term Antarctica 2005. I wish I could call home and share the moment, if only I had a phone. Chris, our team photographer, came up big with exactly what I needed – a satellite phone.
“Hello?”
“Mom, it’s me…I’m calling from Antarctica!” I could hardly believe it myself.
“Brett! What’s it like at the bottom of the world?! Seen any penguins yet?”
“Actually there’s one five feet from me right now. He says hello from Paulet Island, home of the largest Adelie penguin colony in the Antarctic – over 100,000 pairs of them waddling around. He also says I should get off the phone and come hang out…love you bye!”
As I hung up the phone, a chill went up my spine (literally) when I realized what I had just done and where I had done it. It was physically impossible for me to wipe the grin off my face.
See Brett making this phone call
Brett Buckingham '06
Paulet Island
January 13, 2005 | 15:16
Click images to view full size
Adelie penguins adrift on an iceberg near Paulet Island.
Eckerd student and expedition team member Brett Buckingham uses a satellite phone to call his Mom during the landing at Paulet Island, Antarctica. The island is home to the largest Adelie penguin colony in the world. Read about Brett's phone call
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An Adelie penguin stops to ponder his next step on Paulet Island. |
Andrew Hopper gets a close encounter of the penguin kind on Paulet Island.
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Craig Altemose squeezes himself into a mini iceberg on the rocky beach of Paulet Island. |
Photography
It Began to Flurry, Adding to the Picturesque Environment
January 13, 2005 | 17:00
Anchored Near Brown Bluff
Dear Journal,
The journey reached its climax today when I arrived at Brown Bluff, my first encounter with the mainland. This region is named after this area’s beautiful brown-, yellow- and orange-colored cliff of lichens. On the beach there were Gentoo penguins, Adelie penguins with their chicks, and one lone Chinstrap penguin. It was interesting to observe the chicks chase their parents for food. While I was on land it began to flurry, adding to the picturesque environment. This landfall was so perfect that I don’t know how it could get any better!
Jeanette Warner '05
Brown Bluff
January 14, 2005 | 08:18
Click images to view full size
Team Antarctica returns back to the mother ship M/S Andrea via zodiac after going ashore at Brown Bluff on the Antarctic Peninsula Thursday night.
(l-r) Craig Altemose and Brett Buckingham inspect a 50 million year old sedimentary rock at Brown Bluff on the Antarctic Peninsula. The rock is home to two lichens found in Antarctica and also shows volcanic cobbles. The rock greeted the two as they stepped ashore on the continent.
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An iceberg offers up a frame for another as the midnight sun wanes on Iceberg Alley and the M/S Andrea makes her way to Deception Island. |
Photography
Icebergs, dead ahead!
January 14, 2005 | 09:30
Iceberg Alley
Dear Journal,
Good morning. After our exciting day filled with two land excursions, it was time for the M/S Andrea and all of her passengers to head toward Telefon Bay. As we steamed along our charted course would take us through the infamous Iceberg Alley. Iceberg Alley is just what it sounds like; a long, winding path leading us through hundreds and hundreds of icebergs.
As I stood at the stern of the ship on deck 5, I looked out upon the vast horizon. Starting from the starboard side of the M/S Andrea and continuing all the way around to the port side, I spotted over 100 icebergs! These icebergs were not small by any stretch of the imagination. As with the first iceberg of the trip (spotted by Dan), the icebergs in my sightline were all larger than the size of the ship upon which I was standing. I would venture to say that some of the icebergs were 4 to 5 times the size of the ship!
I worked my way down to my cabin and prepared to sleep through the cold Antarctic night. I could feel the ship being steered back and forth to avoid the huge hazards of Iceberg Alley. By the time I awoke this morning, any remnants of the Alley were far behind us.
One final note, I wish a very happy birthday to my Mom.
Dustin Malcolm '05
Brrrr!!
January 14, 2005 | 10:00
Deception Island/ Pendulum Cove
Dear Journal,
As we made our way to Deception Island this morning, the winds increased to 50+ knots, canceling our trips to shore by zodiac. We were supposed to make two landfalls - one to hike along a volcano, and one to go swimming in the hot springs of Pendulum Cove. To everyone’s disappointment, we were unable to go swimming in Antarctica. The staff, however, felt obliged to not leave us completely disappointed. Everyone who had planned on swimming was to meet as a group in their swim apparel. After everyone was there, we stepped outside onto the deck for a photo opportunity. I feel it needs to be mentioned again that the winds were 50+ knots, the temperature was at or below freezing, and it was snowing. As we were standing there all in a row, I noticed out of the corner of my eye about 3 or 4 staff members with ice buckets. I immediately began to think about what exactly I had gotten myself into. Suddenly, water began flying towards us. The smiles and laughter immediately turned into expressions of shock, until we realized that the water was hot, and it actually felt good. We all eagerly hurried inside to the heat, being not just cold, but wet as well. After we all put on warm clothes and drank hot tea, I realized that Antarctica will make people do just about anything “for the experience.”
Ashley Yunker '07
Antarctic Bathers
January 14, 2005 | 13:20
Click images to view full size
Jeanette Warner pauses from her daily work assignment of her journal entry and leadership lesson exercise to gaze out the window of the M/S Andrea as she passes icebergs in the Bransfield Straight.
Due to 50 knot winds and huge waves the expedition team was prevented from landing on Deception Island. The chance to swim in Antarctica was to be on Deception in a thermal spring. In order to get thier official certificate as an Antarctic Bather, the Eckerd team and thier new found friends donned their suits and the crew of the Andrea offered up the unexpected water.
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Antarctic Bathers gather for a pose on the fantail as the M/S Andrea leaves Deception Island. The wind was gusting to 50 knots and the actual temperature was below freezing. |
Photography
Traffic Jam!
January 14, 2005 | 18:30
Unnamed Island in Mikkelsen Harbor
Dear Journal,
Today started out dreary, but turned into a beautiful day. The sun was shining, the sky was blue, and the water was calm. While we were ashore on an unnamed island (now called Eckerdia) in Mikkelsen Harbor our entire group participated in a leadership exercise called traffic jam. Hammer put us into two teams of five people with each team facing each other. Each team member stood in a line one behind the other with a space between the two teams. The object was to get all five people from one side to the other by only stepping in the space and only passing someone of the other team. The time to beat was fifteen minutes and we were able to do it in five. It showed that communication within a group is very important in order to get a job done right the first time. It did take us a few tries to get it right, but we thought it through, tried a few things and worked together as a team to accomplish our objective. This exercise made me stop and reflect on our interactions with the penguins. Getting from point A to point B, we get stuck in a traffic jam unless someone, the tourist, thinks ahead and moves out of the way to allow all parties, penguins and people, to win. See the traffic jam in action
Michelle Davis '05
Straight from the bed to the Zodiac
January 15, 2005 | 08:30
Cuverville Island
Dear Journal,
Straight from the bed to the Zodiac; squinting and awakening, I made my way around a small peninsula to Cuverville Island. Penguins uniformly littered the beach and the welcoming waft of sweet-smelling guano graced our nostrils. We were given the chance to take our first hike and I had been chopping at the bit to get out and explore some of the highlands. I slowly retraced the few steps that had iced over before our arrival and made our way up the steep, icy slopes in a snake-like motion traversing the bank of snow that covered the entire island. The view at the summit was breathtaking. The green and deep blue colors of the endless ice that surrounded us were inexplicably piercing. We named the spot Mount Eckerd and claimed our third colony in Antarctica (not official, yet).
The most exciting part of the trip followed the brief rest, making of snow angels and a sightseeing jaunt at the summit: the way down! I looked down the fifty some degree slope and with a running start, landed flat on my butt and took off. The ascent took nearly thirty minutes, but I decided to cut that by about twenty seven minutes and in three slides was back at the bottom. It was such a rush to be sliding down a snow bank at a high degree of incline and breakneck speed! Craig, Tom and I decided that three minutes wasn’t enough and made our way back up a steeper part of the lower flank of the hill. After three times climbing halfway to the summit and increasing our speed on the way down each time, we decided to call it quits. A bit of a work out, some high speed antics and a lot of snow: it doesn’t get any better than that.
Patrick Schwing '06
...Witness an Iceberg the Size of a Mansion Turn Over and Break Apart
January 15, 2005 | 14:52
I boarded a zodiac to look at some icebergs. We had stopped to look at one when what we thought was a whale breached only a few feet away from us. It turned out that the whale was in fact an iceberg the size of a car. Had our zodiac been a couple of feet to the right, we would have been beached, or worse, flipped over.
I boarded the MS Andrea to enjoy the view. I didn’t think life could get much better than this, but I was wrong. I heard what sounded like an avalanche, and ran to the starboard side of the ship to witness an iceberg the size of a mansion turn over and break apart to half of its original size.
Lesson of the day: Do what ever you can for your shipmates. I ran out of film yesterday and was fortunate enough to receive donations from others.
Matt Taylor '05
Cuverville Island
January 15, 2005 | 15:34
Click images to view full size
The entire Eckerd team takes a break for a group photo near Trinity Island.
(l-r back row standing) Dustin Malcolm, Craig Altemose, Dan Niebler, Michelle Davis, Jeanette Warner, Andy Hopper, Matt Taylor, Matt Staman, Darrell Bullington, Tom Alves.
(l-r front row) Ashley Yunker, Brett Buckingham, Patrick Schwing, Chris Hildreth, Peter Hammerschmidt, Joty Puckett.
Near Cuverville Island a recently overturned iceberg shows it underbelly.
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Upon landing on Cuverville Island Patrick Scwhing(left) and Craig Altemose(right) engage in a little whalebone jousting. |
Zodiacs are launced Friday night on Curtiss Bay from the M/S Andrea to provide the expedition members a spectacular study of mother nature's art in the form of icebergs.
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Expedition members get a rare treat of calm water and beautiful light as they inspect an iceberg in Curtiss Bay. |
The expedition team perform the Traffic Jam exercise under the close observation of Professor Hammerschmidt.
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Professor Peter Hammerschmidt explains the class exercise in team management to the expedition members. The exercise called "Traffic Jam" was to be completed on a rock in Mikkleson Harbor and was based on the interaction between the team and the penquins. |
Photography
The Most Southern Public Post Office in the World
January 15, 2005 | 19:30
Click image to view full size
Dustin Malcolm attaches a stamp to a postcard for his parents at Port Lockroy on Goudier Island. Port Lockroy, a former whaling station and British wartime base, is now the most southern public post office in the world.
Learn more about Port Lockroy
Photography
A Subtle Crackling Melody of Small Ice Bubbles
January 16, 2005 | 11:15
Paradise Bay
Dear Journal,
This morning Gustavo led us on a zodiac tour of Paradise Bay. Along the way I grabbed a chunk of ice, and after licking off the outer layer of salt, I enjoyed a pristine refreshing treat. We saw a Weddell seal on a growler (an iceberg about the size of a car), that was a bit camera shy. The zodiac driver circled the growler twice to try to get a good shot, but the seal kept turning away from us. He’s probably not a people person, that’s why he’s in Antarctica. After leaving the seal alone, we weaved through the ice chunks into a small cove. This is where Gustavo shut the engine off and advised us to all keep silent and just listen. The next five minutes became the highlight of my day. We had all been awestruck by what we had seen, but this morning it was the sound of Antarctica that was so spectacular. A subtle crackling melody of small ice bubbles being released from the endless floating ice chunks, accompanied by the deep, baritone groaning of the healthy, convex glaciers that draped over and engrossed the towering mountains created a harmony as pure as the new fallen snow that surrounded us. It was quite an experience.
Brett Buckingham '06
Storing the Images (and Thoughts of Cold) for Back Home
January 16, 2005 | 12:00
Antarctic Penninsula
We awoke this morning in time to see the passage through the Lemaire Channel. The ship threaded its way through narrow passages, bergs and light pack ice on the way to Paradise Bay. We arrived late morning and crowded into the zodiacs for the trip to shore. We landed at a temporarily unoccupied Argentine scientific station and quickly began a steep climb to the top of a small foothill. From the top of the hill, we had an amazing view of the entire bay. Some of us took a few moments to contemplate the surroundings, storing the images (and thoughts of cold) for back home.
After we finished our time at the top, it was time to head back down the hill - the fast way. A few started sliding down the hill seated, making great use of the snow pants. As more people started sliding the track got faster, and a bit bumpier. Having reached the bottom, we started back up to relive the experience, some of us many times. When we got back to the ship we were tired, WET, and in some cases, a bit sore.
Matthew Staman '92
The Last Excursion
January 16, 2005 | 17:30
Useful Island
I have discovered the joy and the beauty of Antarctica on our last excursion to shore. Our group landed on Useful Island, so named for its usefulness as a naval positioning marker. For the first time, I broke off from the group, and sat and experienced Antarctica. I watched a group of penguins, focusing on a small family. The parents took turns watching the young, feeding them from mouth to mouth. I was present for the changing of the guard, as the one parent came and replaced the other. I was only a few feet from the penguins, but my presence did not bother them. We were cognizant of each other, yet respectful. We did not interact, we simply were.
On a walk around the summit of the hill that we had climbed, Tom and I dodged the attack of swooping birds, apparently defending a nearby nest. The walk down with a guide resulted in the discovery of various Antarctic wildlife that was for now unforeseen, including plant life that lived inside of rocks, and tiny insects living under moss. It has been a wonderful trip, filled with countless discoveries and amazing vistas. Our last excursion did not disappoint.
See the penguin family
P.S. Happy Birthday to Patty Schwing’s Mom!!!
Craig Altemose '05
Bobsledding in Paradise
January 16, 2005 | 20:54
Click images to view full size
(l-r) Ashley Yunker, Tom Alves, and Michelle Davis take in the scene at Paradise Bay. The three hiked to the top of a small foothill with the rest of the expedition to take in the view of the bay and surrounding islands.
After hiking to the top of a foothill on Paradise Bay, Patrick Schwing and Professor Hammerschmidt solved a team building exercise challenge on how to get back down the quickest. Not only did they make a speedy descent but they also found the ride exhilarating.
Tom Alves waits for the next zodiac from the ship and the rest of his team mates on the steps of the Argentinian Almirante Brown Station in Paradise Bay. The research station is in operation during the summer only but with economic issues in Argentina many bases are not being fully staffed.
Photography
Whales!!!
January 16, 2005 | 22:43
Whale Watching
Dear Journal,
It was 2243, the sky dusk, snow covered mountains surrounded our path, and Humpback whales were spotted ahead. Running up to the front deck all I could see were a couple of spouts in the distance ahead. Within minutes 4 to 6 humpbacks were feeding on all both sides of the boat. The most fascinating thing was when one fluke went up then shortly after the rest of the flukes appeared. At one point, one humpback began to gulp feed, pulling its entire head out of the water to swallow as much krill as possible in one gulp. The whales remained near the surface to feed, for a long time. I was shocked at how many whales were in the area feeding. The flukes had very distinctive fingerprint features, such as one fluke was all black while another was almost entirely white. This experience was the best way to say goodbye to Antarctica.
Jeanette Warner '05
Penguins Abound
January 17, 2005 | 11:30
Click images to view full size
A family of Gentoo Penguins watch carefully over a chick on Useful Island. The name of the island is believed to based on the islands usefulness as a navigation point. Read Craig Altemose's entry about the penguin family
From the very first day of landing in Antarctica, expedition team member Ashley Yunker sported her penguin cap in the true spirit of the continent and its surrounding islands
Photography
What’s that Smell?
January 17, 2005 | 12:00
Cabin No. 419, M/S Andrea
Dear Journal,
After spending the past 7 days exploring the beautiful landscapes and many amazing creatures of Antarctica, I began to wonder if there was anything that could go wrong on this exploration. The group had spent many hours learning the courageous stories of great explorers like Shackleton and Scott, but nothing seemed to go in the wrong direction for our group. We had had the privilege of visiting the historic sites of Antarctica escaping the peril that those famous explorers had experienced.
Then it hit me. As I was entering my cabin, number 419, I was attacked by the ‘fowl stench’- penguin guano. I couldn’t believe what I smelled. It was as if a live penguin colony had moved into my cabin. I searched around for the source of the odor and soon learned it was not just one single item. My boots, ski pants, parka, sweater, socks, jeans, and all the rest of the items I had worn on the continent just plain stunk.
At this point, I made the decision to begin packing those items in hopes that the stench would be locked inside of my suitcase. However, as I sit here and reflect upon this smelly situation, I am still reminded of that ‘fowl’ odor. The door has been propped open for quite some time and housekeeping has even stopped in with air freshener. It is safe to say that I will be opening my suitcase as little as possible for the duration of the journey.
Dustin Malcolm '05
Up and Down, Side to Side
January 17, 2005 | 22:00
Drake Passage
Dear Journal,
Last night we began to head north back to Ushuaia. Just as we were getting used to being in calm water for nearly a week, it was time once again to face the Drake Passage. This area of usually rough water has come to be known by three names: Drake Lake, Drake Passage, and Drake Break. Most of what we have experienced has been Drake Passage- rough water enough to make anyone sick, but not quite horrific. Everyone would much rather have experienced Drake Lake, when the water is relatively calm and you can barely notice you’re in the passage- much like the water we were in when we were south in Antarctica. We have, however, come face to face with several moments of Drake Break: the water is very rough with swells higher than we’ve ever experienced, and things begin to break. As we were eating dinner, for example, a thunderous crash came from the kitchen, indicating rough waters.
Everything seems to become much more interesting when the ship is at the mercy of the sea. Everyday tasks become challenging feats. Eating meals is not easy when glasses and silverware are flying off the tables, taking a shower is even more difficult with waves in addition to a slippery floor, and falling out of bed at night becomes a concern. If it weren’t for the Dramamine making everyone so drowsy, I don’t think anyone would be able to sleep, and even if we did fall out of bed, we might not notice because of its effects. This trip to Antarctica has been so amazing that it makes it all worth the amusement. As far as I’m concerned, bring it on Poseidon!
Ashley Yunker '07
Don't Give Up
January 17, 2005 | 22:59
Last night we set sail for home. It was an amazing time down here, and I wish we could stay and explore further. We received certificates tonight making us official Antarctic Discoverers. We’ve made it! I can no longer say, “We’re going to Antarctica,” but now can say, “We’ve been to Antarctica!” It is both sad and exhilarating. I look forward to returning to the world of people and places and things to do, but a part of me wishes to stay here. Despite the cold and wind and waves and isolation, the majesty of this continent truly sets it apart from all the rest. The unconquerable wild South; forever distant, forever dangerous, and forever in our dreams.
Today I interviewed Kim Crosbie, our expedition leader for this trip. Her stories about working in this environment were awesome. Coming from Edinborough, Scotland, she has always loved cold weather. She was originally interested in the Arctic and received a masters from Cambridge University in Polar Studies. After visiting Antarctica to help plan the logistics of a scientific expedition, she also fell in love with this pole, later pursuing a PhD in Wildlife and Tourist Attractions in Antarctica. She has held a variety of jobs in both places, and became the first United Kingdom female field leader in the Antarctic! She spends about four months of the year leading tour groups in the area, and loves getting to show people this amazing place and influence their first impressions of the seventh continent.
As a leader in such a remote and challenging atmosphere she has excelled. Each time we get in the zodiacs it’s another adventure for her to put together. She’s been great at keeping us all safe and alive, but also making each landing fun (not to mention putting up with eleven rowdy college students trapped on a ship). She explained to me how her first tour as an expedition leader was a total disaster, yet she gave things a second chance and came to love the job. Try everything twice, a second chance can show you a new side to things is a lesson to be learned from her story. As a leader she has also had to remember to keep things in context, and balance the responsibility with keeping things fun for all. She has learned to do this from a mentor who taught her how to effectively manage and deal with people, and Jean Charcot, an early Antarctic explorer famous for his scientific contributions and his ability to keep his crew safe and happy. But her biggest lesson to be learned from leading in the Antarctic is this: Don’t give up. It may not be easy at the beginning, but in the end it is worth it. We all owe her a big thanks for these lessons, and for an awesome trip!
Dan Niebler '05
We're Back
January 18, 2005 | 11:20
Cape Horn
Dear Journal,
Three blasts of the Andrea’s bell signaled our exit from the Drake Passage. Cape Horn, Chile—civilization—was straight ahead, the mountains in the mist a welcomed sight after a full day of navigating the open, angry Southern Ocean; on our port side was the Pacific Ocean, to our starboard, the Atlantic. The Andrea, twelve miles from shore, turned eastward, heading for the Beagle Channel, Argentina, avoiding Chilean waters—safety reasons. A poem, remembering the sailors who lost their lives to the waters surrounding Cape Horn, was read over the ship’s intercom:
I am the albatross that waits for you—at the end of the Earth.
I am the forgotten soul of the dead sailors who crossed Cape Horn
from all the seas of the world.
But they did not die in the furious waves.
Today they fly on my wings to eternity in the last trough of the Antarctic winds.
Poem at Cape Horn
Thomas Alves '07
Thank you for following our journey. We will see you soon. “All’s well.”
January 18, 2005 | 16:52
Hello Everyone,
Once again we find ourselves experiencing the nauseating rolls of the Drake Passage as we sail north toward Cape Horn and ultimately Ushuaia. The students are now well equipped with their sea sickness medications to handle the two and a half day journey as we sail away from that magical place Antarctica.
It has been announced that the Horn has just been sighted! Only about 90 miles to go!
As I reflect on the past week in Antarctica I find that there are more memories and insights than I could possibly mention in this brief missive, much less describe. Suffice it to say that with almost 24 hours of daylight each day we took full advantage to explore and to learn more about Antarctica.
My experiences and memories include: the first lifeboat drill (where I got lost), an Eckerd College student winning the prize for being the first to spot an iceberg, learning to operate the ship’s high performance toilet and shower system, the many informative lectures by the experts on the M/S Andrea’s staff, learning the Antarctic code of conduct, our first zodiac ride and landing on the continent, the trips to several Antarctic research stations, the weather, the seas, and the massive icebergs of all types.
I shall also remember and be in awe of the extraordinary plant and animal life in this frozen desert. There were countless numbers of penguins (and other bird life), whales, and seals that greeted us at every stop. We were also able to experience the joy of climbing several of the hills along the coast for the stunning views of monstrous glaciers as well as to enjoy sliding down the snow fields. But, as is often the case, the most special part of a journey includes the people with whom you share it. The M/S Andrea staff could not have been better: they treated us like royalty.
All of the above will stay with me forever, but the most cherished part of this part of this journey for me will be the Eckerd College Leadership Team that joined with me in this “idea” to go to Antarctica. Our goal was to study and experience first hand the leadership and environmental challenges faced by the early Antarctic explorers (focusing on Shackleton). This we did, but these students and their business colleagues accomplished so much more. Acting as a team, they took full advantage of all that Antarctica had to offer, as well as to make time for their contributions to the Eckerd College Web page that was cataloging our expedition.
Finally, I want to offer a very special thanks to Chris Hildreth for capturing our expedition on film and for being the catalyst in always encouraging the team to do more. His photographic record of this Winter Term in Antarctica has been a very special gift to us all.
We are now near the Beagle Channel and our thoughts turn to home and away from Antarctica. Thank you for following our journey. We will see you soon. “All’s well.”
Peter Hammerschmidt
Farewell
January 18, 2005 | 17:15
Photography
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