Street Clues

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STREET CLUES

 By Betty Williams

           Ever since my startled wonder at walking out into that vibrating outdoor scene of Netanya, I have become sensitive to what the sights of the sidewalks and roads portray about the inhabitants of a city.  I have no memory of the flight from Charles deGaulle to Ben Gurion airport or even of how I got to Netanya, a seaside resort town in Israel, where I was attending an international conference.   But, as I stepped out for a stroll alone that first evening, I remember feeling swept into another world from cold, grey Paris in winter. 

          It was the balmy evening after Sabbath, and the streets were jammed with families promenading.  Everyone seemed in a joyous mood, and though they certainly didn’t all know each other, people were communicating with each other, emanating an “isn’t it great to be alive and in this place” warmth that enveloped passersby.  Jammed close together on the sidewalks, grinning, making room for one another, touching shoulders, carrying small children piggyback, talking noisily with companions and sharing eats from a bag.  What a contrast from the Champs Elysee and my neighborhood in Paris.  What I was experiencing, of course, was the sharp difference between northern Europe urban street scenes and those of a Mediterranean seaside ambiance where the weather soothingly strokes early evening strollers into a relaxed, even festive mood.

          But it must be something more than weather.   Paris has beautiful warm weather also when many people promenade evenings along the broad boulevards.   But, in Paris, passersby do not communicate with one another.  Each person walks in his own little world, closed up to any interference, and requiring space.  There is no casual smiling at passersby as I saw in Netanya.  In fact, Parisians look elegantly aloof, preoccupied, sometimes unhappy.  If there is a child in tow, chances are he too looks unhappy.  If a dog is being walked, its owner exudes a smug, defiant “don’t bother me about doggy mess” air.

          But Parisians are sticklers about right and wrong in some cases.  Once my sister was accosted by a woman passerby who jerked my sister around and silently rebuttoned her coat—she has missed a button.   And I witnessed the most unbelievable traffic jam, which stretched blocks in all four directions of an intersection where cars seeking to cross had come to a standstill as drivers sought to assert their right of way. 

          If, according to my street clues, Israelis are gregarious and Parisians standoffish, what about Italians?  From seven years of living with them in Rome, I broadly characterize their street behavior as one of “live and let live.”  Where else would strollers tolerate cars parked on their sidewalks? 

Or outdoor café tables completely cover the walkway, forcing pedestrians out into the street?   On the other hand, I have witnessed two Italians, talking vociferously with one another, without looking, plunge across a wide, heavily trafficked road and all the cars stop to let them get safely across. 

Although Rome traffic looks chaotic, in fact drivers are constantly giving way to one another and are alert to their youngsters on motorcycles swerving in and out amid the autos.  One of my most delightful Rome street memories is of the traffic policeman, mounted on a raised platform at a busy intersection, who conducted the traffic like an orchestra conductor, waving his baton theatrically to indicate how cars should move, as passing drivers reached out their windows to applaud. 

          So we have boisterous Israelis, grouchy Parisians, flamboyantly tolerant Italians, what do my street clues indicate about New Yorkers?   As I walk out of Penn Station and up Seventh Avenue, my antennae are by now aquiver.  The first thing I notice is that New Yorkers do not at all look alike, as if they do not belong to the same nation.  What a melting pot scene: jeaned and booted guys with sideburns making music on accordions before a small crowd; fleshy women waddling along in tight-fitting slacks outlining their ample buttocks; dark-skinned Africans displaying cheap watches and  jewelry on the sidewalk; two sharply dressed men in deep conversation with overtones of a business deal; several  women in long dark overcoats and clutching white scarves protectively around their faces with not a stray hair showing, peering into a widow displaying manikins in two piece swim suits; smartly attired young matrons pushing strollers in which babies sleep peacefully despite the street tumult .   Who are all these dissimilar humans swarming up and down the sidewalks of New York and what do they have in common that identifies them as New Yorkers?               

          One thing they all exhibit is a tolerance of diversity, of noise, of crowds.  It is an orderly chaos.  People, no matter what their ethnic background, understand that if they are all going to survive together on that crowded little island, they must exhibit a certain civility to one another.   That means no pushing, no jaywalking, making the best of the racket and confusion.   I check faces, and notice that at least half of them look pleasant.  If they are walking and talking with someone, almost always, like Americans everywhere, they are smiling.  In that high-tension anthill of a city, people dig out their tunnels with amazing skill and adaptability and good humor. 

          So my street clues are definitive about peoples.  Israelis are naturally exuberant; Parisians irritable and aloof; Romans enjoy a devil-may-care approach to life; and New Yorkers, well New Yorkers are a good-natured hodgepodge of survivors.

          Aren’t generalizations wonderful?

    Comments or questions can be addressed to williab@eckerd.edu

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